Today was nothing short of a Rajasthani fairytale, and undoubtedly one of the most memorable hours of my life. We traveled to Chokhi Dani, which is the most exotic, colorful, Rajastan-esque place. Inside the Arabian-looking gates awaited an entirely different portal of an Indian dream. I saw a traditional dancer with pots 5 feet high stacked on her head, dancing to the beat of the drum. I saw the most phemonemal tight-rope walker, a fire breather who ate and breathed fire like some dragon, and a magician who performed the most mysterious tricks. One kind of creeped me out a bit. Speaking rapid, bubbly Hindi, he asked everyone in the audience to hold hands in a certain way and imagine some fragrant flower. I thought of a rose, as did others. Some thought of jasmine, others lilac. Anyway, he told us to rub hard on the person whose hands we were holding, and then to smell our hand. Freakishly, amazingly, undescribably, my hand smelled like rose petals! Everyone was so amazed that their hands smelled like lilac or jasmine or whatever flower they imagined. It wasn't an illusion, everyone smelled what ever flower they had invisioned. Strange.

I got to ride a camel today too! Riding them is uncomfortable no doubt. They don't have an even step, and they are stubborn. We stayed after night fall, and that was when this fairytale land burst alive with color and beauty. We witnessed tradtional Rajastani puppet theater, which was so hilarious and 10x better than any Western minaret. We had dinner sitting on the tiled ground, against a sand colored wall in a large square, everyone sitting cross legged before platters laden with countless dishes. Men in deep maroon dress and orange turbans served us endlessly at our request, attending us with their endless dishes. Having men put food on my plate for me (which has happened almost every time we have gone out) makes me feel superior and offends my conscience. However, one thing I will always remember - when Anju made an anouncement and declared that the men were going to show us how guests in Rajasthan were traditonally served. The men started with me first. One put a jalebi (this tiny hot sweet syrupy funnel-cake thing) in my mouth and then I didn't even have time to chew before he put another one in my mouth, and I didn't have time to chew that one either when he was about to put another one in my mouth...I would have laughed but my mouth was really full with these dessert things, and I waved my hands to signal "no more", and they moved on to the next person. That was by far the coolest thing to ever happen to me. Having these men in turbans putting these hot sweet amazingly-good dessert things in your mouth for you...because, you know, your too important, lazy, pompous to put your food in your mouth yourself. I will never forget that!

At night Chockin Dani turned into something that resembled a cross between an Arabian neverland and an Island Loua. There were lights that reminded me of tikki torches, fires casting shadows, young men in soft organge turbans guiding us to our next destination, and bowing politely with their hands pressed together. Somewhere between riding the man-powered farris-wheel, watching a metalsmith forge cobras, a glass maker bangles, climbing the towers at the exit overlooking the Arabian-night like sky with a cresent moon,the fire breather, the dancers, the dinner, the torches...it hit me that India is all to magical.

Indiahhhh. I saw more beauty today than I think I am intelligably capable of describing. We went up to a fort outside of the city, built to protect the land from Mughal invaders some time ago. The hills were amazingggg! Green flushed the terrain everywhere, and the sky was vast and cloudy, which opened up to this steep valley carved with rice terraces and dotted with yellow tea blossoms. We were about 4,000 feet up in the air, and later on in the day the clouds passed through the mountain and left us in the wake of its cool misty presence.

The people in the villages on the mountain were very traditional. One elder dressed in traditional garb sang a song to us in Marathi about how the Mongul invaders tried to penetrate the fort. In the song he told a story of the human history of his home, his valley and people. Apparently the king once had thousands of soldiers stationed along the wall.

The villagers cooked for us. We had very traditional food. Spicy green chutneey, this one fried chickpeas and onion snack which was probably the best thing I've ever tasted, more peppery sauces...everything was khoop chaan..very good. I had some yogurt in the mountains made from buffalo milk. I actually found out today that the milk served at breakfast this morning was buffalo milk.

Anju took us to this temple looking thing and showed us how the natives of the village drink water. They cup their hands and put their lips to the base of their hands. We all took turns drinking this way. At first I was apprehensive to drink water from this rustic village temple-looking structure in the middle of this unchanged mountain village. But I did it. Like a native. And I'm so proud of myself!

I could go on and on about today and still never fully capture the beauty, majesty and splendor of all I experienced. I will remember this day for a very long time. The mountains were divine, untouched by time or outside influence. Exploring the fort, looking down on the valley and its vivid greenery, being served by the locals, breathing in misty mountain air. Its true. There really is a paradise on earth. I happened to visit there today.

Syd

So I have been in Pune three days now, and I can say that it is as amazing as I imagined. There are crowds of people, and side shops, and motorcycles that intimidate you as you cross the street. Women with rich skin, dark hair, and colorful saris stroll past. I feel a rush of girl power when I see a women in traditional garb zoom past on a motorcycle. Honking has become the soundtrack to my life ever since I have arrived. Here, people honk to communicate (get out of the way!...I'm turning...I'm backing up....I'm a few centimeters away from hitting you so look out!) Its not like back in the states where a honk is considered a rude insult. I start out by describing the streets because it is the bulk of this city, its lifeblood and charm.

A last night was alot of fun. Most of us ACM students went to a cafe as night fell. CCD (Cafe Coffee Days). Its modern and sheek. We walked in and sat upstairs on some couches with views overlooking the street. This city really comes alive at night (not that it isn't during the day). Its similar to the excitment you get when you are outside at night in New York. Its an Indian vibe, and there IS a beat to the streets...a certain rhythm, although I haven't pin pointed it yet. Anyway, it was nice looking out as we sat. The waiters handed us pretty sizable menus with delectable iced mocha, frothy chocolate, creamy dessert drinks...completely Western. CCD is basically a starbucks. Nice Bollywoood music (I learned today that the word "Bollywood" is not used in India...they say "Hindi" instead) played in the background, and a large flat screen T.V. behind us displayed black and white images of people dancing, and some sort of Indian version of race care driving. Anyway, so a couple of us get ready to order, and the waiter says that actually they are only currently serving three things on the menu due to a shortage of ingredients...snapple, and two flavors of soda! Why the menus then? But I soon realized it was probably so we could see what they served. I can't wait to go back. I can tell we will be at CCD often!

I'm really looking forward to getting to know the city. This will be my home for the next four months! India. My home. Sounds kinda nice.

Well, I will write later!